The Great Marsh
The "Great Marsh" extends from Cape Ann into New Hampshire and covers over 17,000-acres.
Salt marshes are found in coastal areas. These unique ecosystems are formed within protective estuaries and support numerous plants and animals. Salt marshes are among the most productive lands on earth, out-competing even the best-managed farms. Two-thirds of all marine fish and shellfish depend on salt marshes during some portion of their lives.
Plant Species Present Zone: Plants A: Common Ragweed, Seaside Goldenrod B: Salt Hay Grass, Black Grass, Spike Grass C: Smooth Cord Grass D: Bullrush, High tide Bush, Silverweed E: Smooth Cord Grass, Water Hump F: Eel Grass
Salt marshes are divided into two general vegetation zones. The Low Marsh is flooded twice daily by the incoming tide and is dominated by Spartina alterniflora. The High Marsh is flooded sporadically and is dominated by Spartina patens (high salt marsh grass). Salt marshes contain tidal creeks, pools and "islands" of high ground, and serve as highly efficient pollution filters.
Nationwide, vast areas of salt marsh have been destroyed by filling, dredging and developing upland areas. The "Great Marsh" has escaped much of this destruction, but is impacted by pollution runoff and mosquito control ditches built in the 1930s and by road and rail crossings which restrict tidal flows to upstream marshes.
History of the Great Marsh
At first glance, the North Shore salt marshes look like open fields of grass, changing colors with the seasons. But take a closer look or talk to people who have lived and worked in the marsh and you will find that marsh resources have more than just aesthetic and environmental value - they are also tied to our economy, public health, and recreational activities. Commercial shellfish harvesters depend on area clam flats while beachgoers, boaters, bird watchers, and fishers flock to the region seeking recreation.
This North Shore ecosystem, commonly known as the "Great Marsh," covers over 20,000 acres along the northern Massachusetts coast from West Gloucester to the New Hampshire border. This means we have the largest contiguous acreage of salt marsh north of Long Island, New York in our backyard. The "backyard" includes not only land directly in or adjacent to the marsh, but areas further inland that are connected by river networks and streams. So whether you live in a coastal town from Newburyport to Gloucester or are a resident of Groveland or Topsfield, your are part of this sensitive, dynamic, and important system.
Just what was the marsh like in the past, what are present concerns, and what does the future hold for this regional treasure?
Generations of people have worked, lived, and played in the Great Marsh. When we listen to these voices of the past, the historic marsh comes to life with vivid images of clamming, haying, boating, and other timeless activities.
One of these voices that still rings loud and clear is that of Ruth Alexander, resident of Rowley and a 20th century advocate for marsh conservation. Ruth brings the historic marsh to life with stories of birding, hunting camps, haying, and sliding on winter ice sheets.
As a child, Ruth would spend the summer at a family camp off the Rowley River. The marsh she says, "was a wonderland to grow up in as a child. I was so, so lucky." Photos from Ruth's childhood illustrate that the marsh has historically been a source of both recreation and work for the community.
Another voice speaking of the past is that of Pike Messenger, who is now a conservation agent in Middleton and grew up on the North Shore. In the article Haying, Other Salt Marsh Things, and Time he writes, "We knew the marsh only because of what we did there: much swimming, a little haying, fall and winter duck hunting for some, and late winter ice cake jumping. One of my chores as a child was to find the cows each late afternoon and drive them home to be milked."
Historical perspectives such as these paint a picture of the past and begin telling us about the present and future.
Present Change and Protection Efforts
Ruth Alexander speaks of how growth and development are changing the landscape as she sees modern homes being developed on former agricultural land. Driving down Stackyard Road she describes how birding has changed as native woodlands are now stripped of older trees. Yet some local sites in the marsh have remained the same. Near Clamshell Road, local shellfishermen continue to harvest the dinner that is brought to our tables.
Although some things in the marsh remain the same, there are growing concerns. Water quality, fish migration, invasive plants (such as phragmites), salt marsh degradation, population growth, and development are all issues that are currently being addressed by government agencies and other regional organizations. For example, 1999 marks the 20th anniversary of the state Executive Office of Environmental Affairs designating much of the Great Marsh as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC). This Parker River/Essex Bay ACEC includes 25,500 acres of barrier beach, dunes, saltmarsh, and water bodies. This ACEC designation highlights the area as having significant natural resources in the region and ensures greater levels of environmental protection.
Although things are being done to protect Great Marsh resources, it is important to keep an eye on changes taking place like declining fisheries, closing or opening of shellfish beds, and degradation or improvement of salt marsh habitats. These signs are a key to what our future backyard may look like, how we make a living, and where we go to seek solitude.
Future Outlooks
Two students from Sue Corneliussen's 6th grade class at the Essex Elementary and Middle School were especially interested in describing what the future marsh will be like. These students are studying saltmarsh resources and, 20 years from now, may be adults still living, working, and playing on the North Shore.
Patricia Lyons writes, "I can see the salt marsh two ways in 20 years. If we take care of it, I see my dad, my husband, my cousin, and the whole 'marsh gang' going out to the marsh where we go camping every summer. I see it looking the exact same way it does now. The beautiful grass that sways in the wind, the beautiful water when the light shines on it, and the sweet smell of marsh gas which is all the nutrients of the marsh. I can see it another way, too, if we don't take care of it. I can see grocery bags on the grass and beer cans in the water. I also smell the scent of gasoline." Doug Wilkins, another 6th grader writes, "If we don't protect the marsh it will be a dump...The fish would die or mutate which would wreck the whole life cycle of animals and other fish who depend on those fish."
It is hard to say what the future will be, but if efforts to protect the Great Marsh continue, this valuable resource will continue to provide such things as habitat, improved water quality, recreational opportunities, and economic benefits for all of us to share.
8T&B has produced an educational video, Voices of the Great Marsh dealing with the history of the great marsh as well as describing some of the contemporary efforts and people trying to protect this valuable resource. 98-year old Ruth Alexander of Rowley was the inspiration for the video In her almost 60 years as an environmental champion, Ruth has volunteered countless hours to bring attention to and protect the "Great Marsh," which runs from West Gloucester to New Hampshire. Her efforts have inspired many of the current protection activities underway on the Upper North Shore.
Boating in the Great Marsh
Longer days, fresh green landscapes, and blooming flowers remind us that winter is a thing of the past. That means it's time to hoist the sails, start the motors, and get those paddles ready as boating season is here. Views of the Great Marsh form while boating in the maze of rivers, tidal creeks, and estuaries. Protected from the pounding Atlantic surf by the barrier beaches of Plum Island and Crane Beach, these waters provide some of the mosty popular recreational areas on the North Shore.
As the seasons change and boaters head to the water's edge, our coastal towns also gain new summer character. By the time schools get out in June, the boating season really starts picking up. The increased traffic on Route 133, activity at marinas and boat landings, the hum of distant motors, and sails on the horizon remind us how important boating is to the regional economy.
Traffic Signals
As the fleet of powerboats, fishing vessels, river cruises, sailboats, kayaks, and canoes hit the water, the role of local harbormasters becomes essential. These local officials have the responsibility to mark the river, put out floats, issue permits, respond to trouble and safety situations, and carry out law enforcement. Bill Dimento has been the Rowley Harbormaster for 20 years and says that "Plum Island Sound and North Shore boating have been one of the best kept secrets." Maybe not for long... in the past five years, he has seen at least a 30% increase in the number of boat owners. With these increases come environmental impacts of trash, human waste, and chemical pollutants such as engine oil, carbon monoxide, and anti-fouling paint.
Boaters know how important clean coastal waters are. Unfortunately, boat sewage threatens water quality in many embayments such as Plum Island Sound. Bacteria from sewage causes human health problems, which means that shellfish beds and beaches must be closed when these bacteria are detected in high concentrations. The Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management (MCZM) states that, "Boaters can help reduce one source of sewage by joining the pump-out revolution." Pump-out facilities draw sewage out of boat holding tanks for proper disposal.
Two years ago, the Town of Rowley applied for and received a pump-out facility. This vessel is staffed full-time on weekends and is on call during the week. "We must encourage people to use and do the right thing by increasing awareness about pump-out facilities," DiMento says. Without proper waste management, the U.S. Coast Guard and local harbormasters enforce legal requirements and penalties. The good news is that recreational boaters can have their holding tanks pumped out for little or no cost.
Touring the Waters
With the rise in ecotourism in recent years, local cruise and guide companies have become more popular in the Great Marsh. The expanse of tidal creeks, Plum Island Sound, and Essex Bay provide countless peaceful and serene places to explore by kayak or canoe - especially in midweek when much of the boat traffic slows down. The Essex River Basin Adventures (978-768-ERBA) is in its sixth season of providing a variety of guided sea kayak tours for all levels of ability. This is another great way to get on the water and see the diversity of estuaries, islands, wildlife, and beaches in the Great Marsh.
The Agawam Boat Charters (978-768-1114) and Essex River Cruises (978-768-6981) are two companies based in Essex that offer another way for groups to see the natural beauty and wildlife while learning some of the area's history. The Sachem and Essex River Queen are boats able to accommodate larger groups to cruise many Great Marsh locations, including Crane Beach, Crane Wildlife Refuge, and Choate Island.
On these trips you might see Great blue herons stalking through the marsh grass, Snowy egrets, Cormorants perched on dock pilings, or a rare visit from the Glossy ibis. "There are enough nooks, crannies and estuaries to make 30 trips a week without repeating a single route," says Ted Marshall, Captain of the Sachem.
Area Boat Pump-Out Services
(Please call or radio before attempting to use one of these facilities.)
Gloucester Harbormaster
978-282-3012
Radio Channel: 9
Newbury Harbormaster
978-463-9360
Radio Channel: 9
Rockport Harbormaster
Phone: 978-546-6786
Radio Channel: 9
Essex Harbormaster
978-768-6628
Radio Channel: 9
Ipswich Harbormaster
978-356-4343
Radio Channel: 9
Rowley Harbormaster
978-948-7125
Radio Channel: 9
Newburyport Harbormaster
(978) 462-3746
Radio Channel: 9, 12
Salisbury Harbormaster
(978) 499-0740
Radio Channel: 10
Amesbury Harbormaster
(978) 388-2140
Radio Channel: 9
Massachusetts Environmental Law Enforcement
1-800-632-8075
Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management
978-281-3972
Eight Towns & The Bay Committee
978-374-0519
More information available from the Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management.
